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Then in 1993 he came to Florida, “I wanted to go
as far from Boston as possible but still be able to get back in a
hurry.” He had also
decided to leave the restaurant business but realized it was in his
blood and joined with some men to start an Italian restaurant on
Sanibel. That restaurant became Matzaluna.
“Italian food is tough”, says Ed. “You’ve
got Italian Italians, New York Italians, St. Louis Italians, Chicago
Italians and they all expect something different. To prepare good
Italian food you must go back to the roots.” In this case the roots
were in his grandmother’s garden just outside of Boston.
Ask him where he studied, and he’ll say “Self
taught” followed with, “If you don’t know French food you can’t
cook,” He describes his library, “The top shelf is all the French
masters, beginning with Larousse.” Then Ed will tell you how he
started at age ten at Brandano’s, a legendary eatery frequented by
sports figures and politicians, and pass right over his degree in
restaurant management.
Then in 1996 Ed and his partners conceived starting
a new restaurant in the university area of Fort Myers. Ed wanted an up
scale ambitious menu. His partners preferred a glorified franchise
approach, casual food -- great burgers and the like. They envisioned a
seafood name and theme. Ed wanted clubby. It was still undefined when
they broke ground in 1997, but it ultimately opened as the University
Grill, and Ed got his clubby interior. They opened with scant fanfare,
but soon the word got out and they were slammed. The University Grill
had a great first season.
But to Ed, the hands-on professional, “The
toughest year is always the second year because that is when you start
to get really better”. You sort out your menu. Upscale offerings from
Ed’s originally conceived menu also began to appear. You learn from
your strengths and mistakes to become “simpler but better”. And you
become consistent, “I serve food the way I like to eat it.” Some
people may like it and others not, but he doesn’t want to disappoint
those who do like it and keep coming back.
Today, The University Grill is a very successful
and respected restaurant. It’s menu looks a lot like the one Ed wanted
originally but incorporates his partners’ ideas also. People will come
for a cheeseburger and beers on Wednesday but then return for sesame
tuna with a fine wine on the weekend. And it’s clubby. To Ed it’s
the best of both worlds.
University Grill
7790 Cypress Lake Drive
Corner of Summerlin and Cypress Lake Dr.
Ft Myers, Fl 33907
239-437-4377 Phone
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